In areas where maple trees can not grow people have turned to making syrup out of birch sap. The sugar content in birch sap is not as high as sugar maple sap so there is more boiling required than with maple sap.
The end result is a sweet and complex tasting syrup that goes great with savoury dishes especially smoked fish. The taste of birch syrup is sometimes described as containing flavours of raspberries and tart cherries or as a combination of balsamic vinegar and molasses with a hint of fruit. If trying this out, you should not expect the sweet flavour of maple syrup, but something else entirely.
Birch sap is drunk as a beverage and used for creating other products by First Nations peoples in many parts of North America. It is rich in minerals like calcium and potassium. It also contains antioxidants, sugar of course, vitamins C and B, and 17 amino acids. Birch syrup has also been used for centuries to sweeten and flavour foods, so this is not a new process. We have First Nation cultures to thank for both birch and maple syrup.
The same equipment for taping maple trees can be used to tap birch trees. You'll need tree taps, way to collect the sap; either tubing with bags or a bucket that hangs from the tap. There are many variations on the set up, choose whatever works best for you and what you have. You'll also need a drill and drill bit that is the proper size for your tree taps.
Make sure your equipment is cleaned as well as close to sterilized as you can get it. If your equipment is not clean it will spoil your sap quickly and possibly harm the tree you are harvesting from.
Ideally you want to find a spot where you can tap several trees in an area to cut down on labour and get as much sap for your effort. The birch sap will start running after maple taping season is over, when the day time temperatures are around 10. The birch tapping season ends when the buds come out, at this point the sap is no longer good to collect, it becomes cloudy and will be more bitter.
The trees you choose need to be larger than 10” in diameter where you are tapping them. I like to choose the southern facing side of the tree because it will warm up faster and have more sap running. When drilling the hole for your tap you want to make sure you do not go too deep, I make sure of this by marking 1 ½ inches on the drill bit. Drill at a slight upward angle, only a couple of degrees off perpendicular so you get some help from gravity.
When you are done with the tapping process it is important to plug up the hole in the tree you have created. I do this by removing a small branch from the tree, remove all the bark and carve it so that it can be hammered into the hole. The sap needs to be collected daily while its flowing and you are in the collection phase of the process.
As with maple sap, you will need to commit to a lengthy boiling process to boil the sap down to syrup. It is difficult to estimate how long this will take, but plan for approximately 6 hours and monitor it closely towards the end of the process.
It is highly recommended to do this outside. The goal is to boil off litres and litres of water which will all go into the air then condense on your walls and windows if done inside. Even with proper ventilation, it will make your house extremely humid and warm.
It's hard to control the temperature of a fire, but try to control the boiling as much as you can, you do not want an aggressive rolling boil, instead a constant gentle boil will be best for your syrup.
As you start boiling off the water you will notice impurities condensing together. Straining the sap as you go to will remove these impurities and improve the taste. If you need to take a break from boiling and continue on another day you need to strain and refrigerate the sap as it does not keep well when the water content is high.
When you’ve boiled off the majority of the water and the syrup has reached a consistency or sugar content that you are happy with strain again and jar. Follow a jarring procedure to insure a vacuum tight seal and have the best storage possible. I have stored homemade birch syrup for two years in a cold room with no issue with quality.
The time to force branches to bloom inside is in late winter when the branches are budded but they haven’t bloomed on the tree or shrub. People commonly use Forsythia, Lilacs, Tulip Magnolia, or Crabapple branches for this, which are beautiful but there are some beautiful native shrubs you can choose as well.
Spicebush, Pussywillow, Black Cherry, Dogwoods, and Red Maple can all be forced to bloom early. Some of these can take up to a month to bloom after bringing branches indoors, but Pussywillow, Spicebush, Red Maple, and Forsythia usually bloom in 2 weeks or less.
The process for all of these branches is the same:
If branches do not bloom the first time you try this with a plant it may be too early. Cut branches a few weeks later and try again.
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For many of us, outdoor space is a luxury. For some, growing in containers is an easy and accessible alternative to growing in the ground or building raised beds. Whatever the reason, optimizing space and resources will help you succeed in container gardening this growing season.
I have done most of my gardening in containers and have learned a lot from my successes and my mistakes. After moving back to an apartment with a small balcony, last summer really tested my creativity in how to fit an entire garden into a few planters. Let's talk about prioritizing what to grow, maximizing space by growing vertically, and some options that are balcony and renter-friendly.
Vegetables best suited for containers:
While it's true you technically can grow anything you like in a large enough container, with unlimited nutrients and water, here are my recommendations to set yourself up for success with growing in containers.
Cherry tomatoes - In my experience, when choosing what to grow in an extremely limited space cherry tomatoes will give you more reward than larger tomato varieties. Almost all cherry tomatoes are indeterminate, and rather than putting energy into fewer large fruit, they tend to yield more, ripen earlier, and be more versatile. Off of two plants last summer I got plenty of tomatoes for pastas, salads, and snacking. All you need is one tall post per plant (I use t-posts attached to my balcony railing) and some twine or cut up t-shirts to secure the vines to the post as they grow. Be sure to prune your plants to 1 or 2 leaders for the best airflow.
Strawberries - Growing strawberries in containers results in cleaner fruit with fewer pest issues no matter how much space you have in your garden. Rather than growing them in the ground and losing fruit to slugs, bugs, and rodents, grow them dangling over the side of a container to keep them clean and easy to harvest.
Herbs - Everyone recommends herbs for small spaces, and for good reason. I like to use spreading herbs like oregano as ground cover for my tomato planters, to maximize space and to act as mulch and cover the bare soil.
Pole beans - If you have the ability to create a tall trellis structure with a long planter below, pole beans are a great example of growing vertically to maximize your space. Besides being beautiful and low-maintenance, you can get a sizeable harvest in only a few square feet, rather than taking up 20 square feet with bush beans. Similarly, climbing peas are a great option for fall or cooler weather in containers.
Small peppers - Many gardeners claim pepper plants like to "hold hands", and this has been my experience as well. They tend to do well planted fairly close together, and most varieties don't require much support, making them great for containers. I'm recommending smaller fruited varieties here mostly because large bell peppers require much more constant feeding to reach their full size. In contrast, hot peppers, jalapeños, and smaller sweet peppers tend to produce very well in containers. Peppers are also more drought tolerant than a lot of vegetable crops, which can be beneficial for container growing.
*Note: if possible, peppers should not be transplanted outside until after temperatures are consistently above 15 degrees celsius. Colder temperatures can stunt growth and limit fruit production for the entire season.
If you have a little more space, add some zucchini and carrots. These will provide many pounds of nutritious food with very little effort. It's hard to prioritize what to grow when there are so many more options than you have space for, but here is a place to start.
This seems like a good place to remind you that you don't need acres of land to create a wildflower garden. You can start by converting your existing flower beds, or add a container for native perennials. Your backyard bees will thank you!
Lastly, leave a bit of space to grow whatever brings you joy. My patio sunflower and window boxes took up space that could have grown food, but I never regret making space for colour and joy.
What I'm changing up this year
In my 2024 garden there are a couple of things I want to do to maximize what I can grow in my small balcony space. The first is to add a vertical tower planter like a Greenstalk to fill up with peppers, strawberries, and herbs. This should allow me to multiple my yield using the same square footage simply by growing vertically. On this theme I'm also considering using the balcony railings themselves as a short trellis for some snap peas. If you'd like more content on trellising and vertical garden solutions leave a comment below.
I'm also going to make sure I feed all my containers with an organic fertilizer on a more regular schedule. In containers it's especially important to feed regularly throughout the growing season because the nutrients in your potting soil get used up quickly by fruiting plants. Lastly I'm going to make sure to remember to plant for the fall to extend my harvest past the first frost. Kale, snap peas, and radishes are excellent for fall container gardening, if you remember to plant them at the right time.
Share your tips for growing in small spaces with me!
Introducing a new series: Beyond the Garden
In this series of articles, we are unveiling some of the ecological wonders and extraordinary adaptations of some of our favourite Canadian wildflower species. Each article in this series will feature a native plant or wildflower that we offer seeds for and share a few of the reasons we think they’re worth making space for in your garden or landscape.
From pollination strategies to altering soil chemistry, these articles aim to explore the mysteries, ecological significance, and evolutionary pathways that shape these botanical treasures. We'll explore the ecological niches these wildflowers occupy, their relationships with wildlife, and their roles in sustaining biodiversity.
Dense Blazingstar (Liatris spicata)
The flower spikes of this stunning tallgrass prairie species are loved by hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Blazingstar is an excellent accent plant, especially when planted next to natives with contrasting yellow blooms, such as black-eyed susans and lance-leaf coreopsis. Here are a few more reasons we love this plant...
The fan is essential, adding a fan helps you succeed by strengthening plants, preventing leggy and weak stems, and providing airflow which generally keeps plants healthier.
If you don't have a mesh/drainage planting tray to fill with soil and place inside the watering tray, no worries. If you find a bag of potting mix that fits inside your tray, you can plant directly in the bag. Just shake the bag of potting mix to break up any clumps, and smooth the soil into an even layer. Then, poke or cut some holes for drainage in the bottom side of the bag, place it in the tray, and cut a rectangle out of the top side of the bag leaving enough of an edge to prevent spilling soil.
Don't overthink the light or equipment, use what you have access to. Even a normal white shoplight will provide enough light for baby greens if you place it about 5-8 inches above the plants, you don't need one specifically marketed for growing plants. If you already have a light for starting seeds, use that.
However it does help if your light has a timer built-in. The timer on my grow light is set for 10 hours per day, and the fan runs constantly.
Are you growing anything indoors this winter? It may be too early to start your tomato seeds for the spring depending where you are, but if you're itching to start some seeds, try some greens!
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I've been reminiscing about the summer blueberry harvest, and wanted to share a couple of recipes.
Blueberry Strudel
Blueberry strudels are an indulgent summer treat, and something I constantly get excited for. The crispy and flaky pastry paired with the fresh wild blueberry jam is nothing short of spectacular.
Instructions:
Roll out two sheets of your thawed puff pastry sheets so you get maximum surface area. Lie them flat side to side and make sure they are the same, or very similar dimensions. Gently run a butter knife along where you are going to cut out each strudel, Don't cut the dough yet as the sheets will shrink, you just want guidelines for where to place your jam and water. In the middle of your marked squares or rectangles place a tablespoon or two of jam, depending on the size of pastry you want. Keep the jam away from the boarders you drew, keep it in the center as much as possible or the two sheets of pastry will not want to stick together. With a brush, put water along the lines your drew with the butter knife along what will be the edges of the pastries. Place the second sheet of pastry over the one with jam, being sure to line the edges up before you place it fully down on the jam. Firmly tap along the lines where you want the sheets to stick to each other. With a sharp knife cut the sheets into the strudels. With a fork, seal the edges of the pastry so they fuse and leave a nice pattern. Cook in the oven as directed by the pastry box.
Blueberry Bombs
Once you have the jam there is barely any prep in this recipe so you can have your tasty pastry without any elbow grease. All you need are some thawed sheets of puff pastry, blueberry jam and an egg for egg wash.
Instructions:
Unroll and spread out your puff pastry and cut it into squares approximately the size of your palm. Roll out the squares. To create a little jam pouch, spread a square out on your hand and cup your hand like your holding an egg. Place a table spoon or two of jam in the pastry cup and close the edges over it. Take another square and place the side you just sealed in the middle of the square and close that one around the first. Brush the tops with egg wash before you put them in the oven. Place the pastries on parchment paper in the oven as per the puff pastry instructions. Let the blueberry bombs cool completely before you try them, the jam will hold heat much longer than the pastry part and you'll burn your mouth. I've have learned this through painful trial and error, I have made the mistake so you don't have to.
Adapted to Your Climate and Conditions
Growing flowers and vegetation that are native to the area can be much easier than if you are growing ornamental from half a world away. Native wildflowers are adapted to the abiotic factors such as climate and soil conditions of your region and are more likely to thrive without regular maintenance and watering than plants that evolved under different conditions. Since the plants are used to the soil conditions there is no need for constant amendments and fertilizers. Truthfully, wildflowers should not be fertilized as they are used to competing for soil nutrients. Fertilizing wildflowers will also promote weed growth that can eventually blot out your wildflowers sun availability.
To ensure your wildflower success, make sure you choose a site that is compatible with the wildflowers sun, soil, and water requirements. There is a spot for everything to thrive. A good way to choose wildflower species for your space is to check what natural habitats the plant is found growing in. Plants adapted to the forest floor, like Bunchberry or many ferns will do best in a partially shaded site. Plants found in prairies will tolerate dry conditions and full sun.
Co-evolution With Insects
All around the world there is a close relationship between native insects and plants. Over time they have evolved to rely on each other to ensure the survival of both. In the case of moths and butterflies and some other groups of insects, the plants feed the insects as well as provide shelter or somewhere to lay eggs and insects help with the reproduction cycle of plants.
Sometimes plants and insects have relied so heavily on each other throughout their natural history that they become obligate to each other, meaning an insect will only feed from that plant or that plant can only be pollinated by that insect. You may think that just because a pollinator is visiting a flower it is good food for said pollinator. This is not true. The ratio of nutrients in native wildflowers is the most compatible for native insects and pollinators. Native pollinators may be able to consume the pollen and nectar of non-native plants but it will not have the same nutrient profile for the insect and if that is the only source of food, it may cause deficiencies or slower growth for larva. For example, studies show that one of the biggest factors in the success of a Bumblebee colony is the diversity of native plants in the pollen diet of larva through their development. Colonies or nests that gather most of their pollen from introduced, non-native flowers are much more vulnerable to illness and poor larval development.
Other important insect-plant relationships that you can sustain in your wildflower garden are between moths or butterflies and their host plants. Lepidoptera represent a large and important portion of North America's biodiversity, and they need specific plants or groups of plants to survive.
This Primrose Moth (Schinia florida) lays eggs in the flower buds of Common Evening Primrose, eat the plant as a caterpillar, then rest in the opened blossoms as adults. Relationships like these are integral to biodiversity and you can support and observe them in your backyard!
Naturally Perennial
Most wildflowers are perennial! Others have shorter lifespans but will self-seed once established. Some perennial native plants may eventually need to be replaced, but once you have a mature plant established they will produce their own seeds that you can keep to start new plants the next year.
Feeding and Housing Wildlife
If you've ever been disappointed by a lack of wildlife in your garden space, or you want to encourage more of what you do observe visiting your space, wildflowers and native shrubs are the best long-term way to sustain and attract wildlife. Birds, insects (as mentioned above), and other creatures thrive when we add food and habitat for them through planting native.
This is especially true if you are mindful to select a combination of plants that offer food throughout the entire year. Berries that remain on a shrub through the winter, like Winterberry or Staghorn Sumac help feed your backyard birds. Early blooming shrubs and trees like Pussywillow or Maples help feed native bees when they need it most. Red, nectar-rich wildflowers like Cardinal Flower help feed hummingbirds without the risks of traditional hummingbird syrup feeders.
Cut Flowers for Your Table
"Weeds" and wildflowers offer different but equal beauty to garden roses or peonies. If you aren't persuaded to plant wildflowers for the bugs or birds, then plant them just for you.
Whether you have a yard, a farm, a balcony or just a window, there are wildflower options for you that will make both you and local wildlife happy. When you're shopping for plants and seeds to add to your space this year, we hope you consider all these reasons to plant wildflowers.
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I decided I would pick flowers to place on my kitchen counter at least once a month this year. Some of these bouquets are entirely wildflowers found in highway ditches, others were picked from my planters at home, and some featured blooms from around my neighbourhood. Whether you want to surprise a loved one, or pick up this habit of self-love like I did this year, stopping to pick some ditch flowers is free and delightful.
]]>Some of these bouquets are entirely wildflowers found in highway ditches, others were picked from my planters at home, and some featured blooms from around my neighbourhood. There are a few exceptions made for winter months, but this year's collection of blooms was entirely free.
Always make sure you're picking from somewhere you have permission to harvest. Removing plant parts is not allowed in some parks and natural spaces. Make sure you know how to identify what wildflowers you're picking and being mindful not to take too much.
With that said, here is 2023 in bouquets.
January 25th - Forsythia branches cut and tricked to bloom early inside, and some tulips from a friend.
February 20th - bulbs moved from my fridge to some soil meant I didn't have to cut any flowers this month (nothing was blooming outside just yet).
March and April - a staggered supply of daffodils, escaped from gardens into ditches and paths.
May 24th - a few geraniums and sunflowers from my planters brought inside.
June 1st - fragrant lilacs from a neighbour's enormous lilac shrubs and more sunflowers from the balcony.
June 15th - Marigolds and Oxeye Daisies!
July 25th - a handful of weeds or a wildflower bouquet? Who's to say. Goldenrods, Black-eyed Susans, and Yarrow. Common but beautiful.
August and September - a continuous supply of wildflowers from roadsides kept this jar full all month. This one featured Goldenrods, Asters and Wild Carrot, and although simple it's one of my favourites this year.
November - my 3 year old Amaryllis took the spotlight after the wildflowers went to seed.
December - the Christmas Cactus had its time to shine right on schedule.
Whether you want to surprise a loved one, or pick up this habit of self-love like I did this year, stopping to pick some ditch flowers is free and delightful. I'm not usually one for New Years Resolutions, but this one definitely brightened my life this year.
Do you have a goal for the new year?
]]>It's always best for the planet and your wallet to use what you have - but if you want to gather materials for this project, start with your local thrift store and your neighbourhood. Here's what you'll need:
Keep in mind when selecting a container that the narrower the opening the more difficult it will be to place materials and plants inside. Be sure to use potting soil, not garden soil.
The layering is straightforward - add your gravel or rocks at the bottom, then activated charcoal if you are using it. The charcoal helps filter the water and prevent the odor and mildew buildup that may occur in a closed terrarium over time. Then add a layer of soil, the depth will depend on your plants and container. Last, add your plants and cover the soil with either decorative gravel or mosses, you can get creative here just don't leave the soil bare. Water your terrarium, and place in indirect light.
Selecting Plants
There are two main types of terrariums and you will need to decide which you desire when choosing plants in order for them to thrive. Closed terrariums, like the one pictured above, are ideal for tropical, humidity loving plants. These are what you likely think of when you picture a terrarium. If you want to include succulents, you need an open terrarium. In general, try to select plants with similar water and growing needs since they will be sharing a container.
Plants for a Closed Terrarium:
Plants for an Open Terrarium:
Any dry adapted plant that fits in your chosen container can be suitable for an open terrarium, however it is very important not to over water. Since there is no drainage, water very sparingly. Succulents like the String of Pearls and Haworthia pictured above grow well in this open terrarium and tolerate drought for long periods of time between watering. Since there is not much soil in this terrarium, and no good way to drain excess water, I only give it a splash of water each 1-2 months.
Moisture and Maintenance
Both types of terrariums are quite self-sufficient and resilient to neglect if you have selected appropriate plants.
As mentioned, open terrariums for dry-loving plants should not need frequent watering. In this case, the container is not holding humidity but it also cannot drain from the bottom so do not overwater. You will only need to water occasionally to keep the plants thriving.
In some closed terrariums, they can be sealed and left indefinitely. The key is getting the moisture level just right when you start out, adding a little bit of water at a time and monitoring the moisture level over a couple of days when you first build your terrarium. There is one terrarium grown by David Latimer of England that has been sealed for nearly 50 years! However this is not everyone’s goal in creating a terrarium.
I’ve found that opening the jar terrarium to “breathe” once every month or so has been beneficial. Some months I add a small amount of water if the soil has dried out, but most of the time it’s not necessary. Since the moisture that condenses on the glass is contained and eventually drips back to the soil, the air and soil remain moist, and the tropical plants and mosses have everything they need. A spray bottle is helpful for closed terrariums that aren’t completely sealed and do need a bit of moisture added regularly. After 6 months or a year, if you notice any yellowing leaves, you may want to add some diluted houseplant fertilizer to your terrarium either as a foliar spray or in regular watering. Try not to overdo it with water or fertilizers since your terrarium can't drain the excess.
My two biggest pieces of advice are:
A landrace seed variety is a genetically diverse variety of plants that have been present in an area long enough to have naturally adapted traits to help them thrive in the local ecological and climatic conditions. Landrace varieties are crucial for maintaining good genetics in plant species and are often the target of seed-saving and gene bank projects to keep crop types healthy and genetically diverse. As far as global food security goes, the conservation of landrace varieties is super important! The Svalbard Global Seed Vault is a secure backup facility for the world’s crop diversity on the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen in the remote Arctic Svalbard archipelago. The Seed Vault provides long-term storage of duplicates of seeds conserved in gene banks around the world. This provides security of the world’s food supply against the loss of seeds in gene banks due to mismanagement, accident, equipment failures, funding cuts, war, sabotage, disease and natural disasters.
Heirloom seed varieties are plants that have been open-pollinated and can have their lineage traced back for decades. They are primarily chosen for their superior flavour and culinary uses. Sometimes developed by plant breeders, but often just the lovely outcome of keen farmers and gardeners saving seed over time. You could never get bored experimenting with heirlooms, there are countless varieties to choose from, with many having interesting regionally stories from around the world.
Hybrid seeds are varieties that have been bred for their resistance to diseases. Since the dominate form of agriculture has moved to monoculture farming, pests and diseases have the ability to desolate crops. Having the same crop covering huge areas of land can make crops especially susceptible to pests, causing the population of pests to boom or making the spread of disease very easy. To combat this farmers started crossing varieties of vegetables to create ones that were more resistant to diseases. One often unintentional outcome through the breeding process is that the quality of flavour of that variety can be lessened and the hybrid fruit often do not bear viable seed or seed that is true to the parent plant. Hybrid plants are in contrast to open pollinated plants, which are described below.
Open pollinated means the flowers of that plant are fertilized by natural means, either by pollinators like bees, moths, birds and ants or by wind. The seed that forms produces the same plant type as the parent the following year. Open pollinated seed are also genetically diverse, so there can be a lot of variation in the plants and fruits. Since agriculture began about 12,000 years ago, people have been choosing the qualities they like in a plant, such as fruit size, flavor, growth habit, heat and cold tolerance, and uniformity, saved the seed, and continually grew it out year after year. This is plant selection and can only be done with open pollinated seed. Open pollinated seed are in contrast to hydrid seed- which can be more unpredictable. Hybrid seeds are made by manual cross pollination of plants. This should not be confused with genetic engineering or GMOs, which involved the insertion of new genetic material. Hybrids are bred to increase specific characteristics of the plants they create. Hybrids are made to produce higher yields, create greater uniformity, improved color, increased disease resistance, and more. Hybrid seeds cannot be saved with any assurance of regularity. The seed from the first generation of hybrid plants does not produce true copies reliably, so new seeds must be purchased for each planting.
Determinate growth plants will have their vegetative parts growing until the first flowers on the plant bloom and then the plant changes gears to start producing flowers and fruit, no longer putting energy into growing the main stem of the plant. Determinate plants tend to be bushier in stature and produce all of their fruits around the same time, providing most of your harvest around the same time.
Indeterminate growth plants continue to grow their primary stem throughout the entire growing season. Because of this, indeterminate plants can grow very tall and the timing of their harvests are spread out. As the primary stem continues to grow it continuously puts out flowers and fruits, this makes for a very extended and prolific growing season for the plants. If you are growing indeterminate plants make sure that you have lots of space and trellis plans or provide other supports.
Cedar Tea
In Northwestern Ontario and much of Canada, cedar trees are very common. Eastern White Cedar has been used traditionally as medicine and in ceremony for thousands of years, and is still used by the indigenous communities of this region. This tea has a pleasantly sweet and earthy flavor, and is packed with vitamin C.
Cut 4-6 large sprigs of Eastern White Cedar (cut new growth from the tips and do not take more than you need). Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and add your cedar on top. Let it boil for 10 minutes or until the water is slightly green, and remove from the heat. We recommend adding a touch of honey.
Important note: this is not a daily beverage. Do not consume more than around 1 cup per week due to the presence of a compound called thujone, which can be toxic in large quantities.
Rowan or Mountain Ash Berry Jelly
These fruits must be cooked before consumed to be safe - do not consume raw. European species of Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) is common in cities and towns as an ornamental planting, and American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana) can be found in some woodland edges and rocky hillsides. Berries have some bitterness but can make an excellent jam or jelly. Be sure to leave some for the birds!
To make a jelly:
Add 4 cups of washed rowan berries and 2 cup of apples to a pot. Add just enough water to cover the fruits, and optionally add a sprig of fresh rosemary.
Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and mash the fruit with a potato masher, then strain through a fine mesh sieve or clean nylon tights.
For every 1 cup of juice, add 1/2 cup of sugar and boil for 10-15 minutes. Ladle into clean jars and seal.
Staghorn Sumac
This plant's seed pods have a unique citrusy flavour. If harvesting to use as a spice, most people suggest harvesting in late August or September, shortly after the seed pods ripen because a lot of flavour is washed away with rain and time. However, you can still harvest sumac in winter if you can find seed pods still in good condition.
To make a delicous lemony cold tea, steep 3-4 "berry" clusters for around 8 hours in water, but avoid hot or boiling water as this can bring out a bitter unpleasant flavour. Then strain through cheese cloth or very fine strainer to remove the "hairs" and seeds, and sweeten with honey. A common roadside plant, you likely won't have to look too hard or bushwhack to find it. The bright red seed pods come out of the top of branches and usually point upward towards the sky.
Rose Hip Tea
Did you know rose hips contain even higher concentrations of antioxidants than blueberries, black currants, hawthorn berry, or rowanberry?
If you intend to use the rose hips for consuming in a jam or food recipe, you will need to remove the seeds and hairs on the inside as these can irritate your throat and digestive tract if left in. However, for tea you can leave them whole and skip this step.
Dry the rose hips by laying out flat on a baking sheet and placing in your oven on the lowest possible setting. Leave them to dry for several hours, until they feel completely dry and brittle. Then, you can store them in an airtight jar and add to teas to add vitamins and antioxidants. They pair well with hibiscus, raspberry, anise, and many other herbal tea ingredients if you wish to mix them with other flavours.
Pine Needle Soda
Ferment your own pine soda if you haven't tried this recipe yet!
Notes on Foraging
Responsible foraging involves thorough research, accurate plant identification, ethical harvesting methods, and awareness of risks before harvesting or consuming plants from the wild.
1: A wildflower collection that suits their garden space or desires. Choose from our Cut Flowers Collection, Wild Tea Seed Collection, For the Hummingbirds Collection, For the Butterflies Wildflower Collection, and more!
2: A gift card for the seed collector in your life who would prefer to choose their own wildflower or vegetable varieties and have them delivered right to their home. Our gift cards can be redeemed towards any items available on our online store and never expire. Physical and e-gift cards are available.
3: Tulip or Amaryllis bulbs to brighten their home in the dark winter months! Bonus points if they are planted ahead of time and getting ready to bloom around gifting time. Learn how easy it is to trick tulips to bloom indoors this winter.
4: For the culinary enthusiast or forager foodie, consider seeds for these edible wildflowers. Anise is a delicacy with its liquorice flavour but is also an easy to grow perennial. Nodding Wild Onion is a native member of the onion/allium family with lots of flavour. Wild Bergamot can be used to make a delicious earl grey tea.
5: Give the gift of flavours and colours they would not get to experience without growing them! We carry several vegetable and fruit varieties that are unique and not typically found in grocery stores or markets.
Growing a new variety can be full of surprises and so rewarding! Magenta Orach also known as Mountain Spinach, Banana Nano Peas, or Purplekeepers Tomatillo are all great options for the adventurous gardener.
6: Preserves from your own garden or kitchen - no one appreciates the gift of homemade jam, pickles, preserves, or baked goods like a gardener. Bonus points for including a copy of your recipe with the gift!
7: For the young gardener, the Children's Garden Collection. This collection has a fun collection of vegetables that are visually appealing and easy to harvest and enjoy in the garden. As a bonus, studies have shown that children who have experienced gardening are much less likely to be picky eaters. With this collection, you can explore the beauty and flavours of the garden together!
8: A tool to make the next garden season go smoother. We recommend a hori hori tool, or a watering timer to make irrigation easier during busy summer months. A garden journal is a great tool as well, like this Ten Year Chronicle of Your Garden from Lee Valley.
9: Wildflower Seed Mixes! For those on your list who might be indecisive, or who are trying to restore a larger space, we have mixes that will cover 100, 250, 500, or 1000 square feet! We recommend the Easy to Grow Wildflower Mix as a gift, but we also offer Dry and Sunny, Lakeshore, or Part Shade seed mixes.
10: For the patio or small space gardener, seed collections selected specifically for those lacking in outdoor space. We recommend our Container Collection of small-space vegetables which includes Tequila Sunrise Peppers, Rainbow Swiss Chard, and the Merville Rocket Tomato. Wildflowers such as Black-Eyed Susans, Lanceleaf Coreopsis, or Purple Coneflower are also excellent choices for a container or balcony garden.
If you're shopping with us for any gifts this holiday season, we recommend placing your order before December 15th.
Happy Holidays!
]]>Originating in Eastern Europe, Hügelkultur, meaning "hill culture" in German, has taken the gardening world by storm with its innovative and eco-friendly approach. Instead of just gardening, think of it as creating a thriving hill of possibilities right in your backyard. Let's delve into five key aspects that make Hügelkultur a game-changer for garden enthusiasts.
What is Hügelkultur?
In Hügelkultur, raised garden beds are created by mounding up decomposing organic materials such as logs, branches, leaves, and compost. The organic matter gradually breaks down over time, creating a nutrient-rich soil ecosystem for plants. This technique is known for its water retention capabilities, soil fertility promotion, carbon sequestration benefits, recycling and repurposing of organic waste, and long-term sustainability, making it an eco-friendly and effective approach to gardening.
Photo by Daderot.
1. Water Magic
Say goodbye to frequent watering! Hügelkultur's raised beds act like nature's sponges, soaking up and holding onto moisture. As the organic mix breaks down, it releases water gradually, providing a steady hydration source for your plants. Perfect for those dry climates where every drop counts, these beds reduce the need for constant irrigation, ensuring your greens stay happy even during dry spells.
2. Fertility Fiesta
Hügelkultur is a fertility feast for your soil. The slow decomposition of organic materials enhances your soil with essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. As nature works its magic, earthworms, fungi, and bacteria join the party, creating a vibrant and healthy soil ecosystem. Plus, with fantastic drainage, your plants are safe from waterlogging, root rot, and other soil-related issues.
3. Carbon Capture Champ
Help combat climate change with Hügelkultur! By using woody debris and organic matter that would otherwise release carbon dioxide, this gardening method becomes a superhero in carbon sequestration. As materials decompose, carbon gets locked into the soil, promoting sustainability and reducing greenhouse gas emissions.
4. Waste Warrior
Why throw away when you can Hügelkultur? Fallen branches, leaves, and tree trimmings find a new purpose in constructing these raised beds. It's a recycling marvel that aligns perfectly with sustainability principles. Instead of contributing to landfills, repurpose your organic waste into a thriving garden space.
5. Maintenance Marvel
Say goodbye to constant soil amendments! Once your Hügelkultur beds are set up, they're in it for the long haul. These beds can go for years without major maintenance, thanks to the continuous decomposition that nourishes the soil. No need for frequent fertilizer applications—save time, effort, and resources with this low-maintenance gardening wonder.
In essence, Hügelkultur isn't just gardening; it's a holistic approach embracing water retention, soil fertility, carbon capture, waste reduction, and long-term sustainability. Whether you're tending to a cozy backyard garden or managing a sprawling agricultural plot, Hügelkultur promises a plethora of benefits. Embrace this sustainable gardening gem and watch your plants thrive in a nutrient-rich, water-wise, and eco-friendly haven. 🌱✨
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Dried Apple Cinnamon Slices
Dried apple slices are a nice sweet snack to have throughout the winter, the crunch is amazing! They are basically sweet chips. First slice as many apples as you can fit into your dehydrator and in a large bowl add sugar and cinnamon over top of the apple slices. Mix the slices well so they all have cinnamon on them and let them sit in the bowl for a couple hours or overnight. After the apples are coated, place them all in a dehydrator, leave space between the slices or they will stick together. Save the liquid at the bottom of the bowl! The amount of time the apples need in the dehydrator is very dependent on your dehydrator and how full it is, keep checking your slices and when they can easily snap, they are ready.
Apple Cinnamon Syrup
With the liquid from the bottom of the bowl you saved when making apple slices you can make a delicious apple cinnamon syrup! Add the liquid you saved to a sauce pan and over gentle heat, simmer off the water. The amount of time you simmer for depends on how thick you want your syrup. This is a great sweetener, I use it for overnight oats to make them taste like apple pie. The apples from the tree I pick from are more tart than your supermarket apples but the syrup that is made from the juices and sugars is absolute perfection.
Apple sauce
The apple sauce that I make I only use in my baking to add moisture to whatever it is I'm making, like cake, brownies or applesauce can be used as a substitute for oil or butter in baking. To make apple sauce, peel and core your apples well and blend in a food processor until smooth, you may need to add some water but do so sparingly and a tablespoon at a time. You still want the apple sauce to be thick.
Apple juice
Chop up your apples and add them to a blender with a little water so the blended apples aren't too thick. Strain your juice through a cheese cloth. Do not throw out the strained apple solids you can use them to make leather in the oven! Put the juice into large jars and let it sit for a couple of days in the fridge, this will give the little solids time to sink to the bottom. When you see a build up at the bottom of the jar pour the juice into another jar, doing your best not to disturb the solids that have gathered at the bottom. Its important to store your freshly made apple juice in the fridge.
Let us know how these worked for you!
]]>Photo by Benson Kua from Toronto, Canada - An ornamental Phaleonopsis orchid.
Orchids are one of the world’s largest plant families and have become highly sought after by indoor plant enthusiasts. Orchids have a lot going for them, they have medicinal properties, can be used as a soil amendment, and some are edible. Despite their popularity, it is a common misconception that orchids are only founds in tropical climates. There are in fact over 30 native orchid species in Northern Ontario alone. Below we will explore some of our favourites.
Pink Lady’s Slipper (Moccasin Flower) Orchid
The Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule) is a captivating orchid species that graces the forests of Northern Ontario with its enchanting presence. This striking plant stands out with its solitary, slipper-shaped flower that ranges in color from delicate shades of pink to vibrant magenta. Its stunning pink blooms and unique slipper-shaped flowers make it a beloved and sought-after plant by both botanists and nature enthusiasts, hence its unique name. That being said, the root of this beautiful plant was used as a remedy for nervousness, tooth pain, and muscle spasms in the late 1800s. Across its range, this plant grows 6 to 15 inches tall and flowers between May and July. This orchid thrives in the region’s acidic and well-drained soils, often found beneath the dappled shade of coniferous or mixed forests. This orchid faces conservation challenges due to its slow growth, specialized habitat requirements, and vulnerability to habitat loss and disturbance. Preserving the delicate ecosystems where the Pink Lady’s Slipper thrives is crucial to ensure the continued existence and enjoyment of this cherished species in Northern Ontario’s natural landscapes.
Photo by Ragesoss - Own work
Tall White Bog Orchid
The Tall White Bog Orchid (Platanthera dilatata), also know as the Sierra Bog Orchid, is a remarkable orchid species found in various regions, including Northern Ontario. This elegant plant showcases clusters of delicate, white flowers that bloom atop tall, slender stems. The White Bog Orchid thrives in wet, boggy habitats, often gracing the edges of marches, fens, or damp meadows. Its ability to adapt to such unique and challenging environments demonstrates its resilience and adaptability. It can be easily identified by the labellum, also called the lip. The labellum is distinctly dilated (broader at the base than the tip), and the flowers have a strong scent. The plant height ranges from 14 to 30 inches tall and blooms between July and August. In addition, when cooked, the root of the Tall White Bog Orchid tastes like frozen potatoes, adding another outstanding trait to this plant. As a native species, Plantanthera dilatata plays an essential role in the ecological balance of these wetland ecosystems, attracting pollinators and providing a source of beauty and wonder. Preserving the habitats where the White Bog Orchid resides is crucial for safeguarding its continued existence and maintaining the biodiversity of Northern Ontario’s natural landscapes.
Photo by Bill Bouton from San Luis Obispo, CA, USA - White/Fragrant Bog Orchid, "Platanthera dilitata" Uploaded by Orchi
Lesser Purple Fringed Bog Orchid
The Lesser Purple Fringed Bog Orchid (Platanthera psycodes) is a beautiful orchid, pollinated by smaller butterflies, skippers and moths. The specific name (psycodes) comes from a Greek word meaning “butterfly-like”, referring to the shape of the flowers. This striking plant stands out with its tall, slender stem and clusters of intricately fringed, purple flowers. Its vibrant blooms and dried roots were used by the Iroquois for protection against ghosts. Purple Fringed Orchid thrives in a variety of habitats, including meadows, wetlands, and open woodlands. This alluring species ranges from 1 to 5 feet tall, and flowers between July and August. Platanthera psycodes holds ecological significance as an indicator species, as its presence often indicated a healthy and diverse ecosystem. Conservation efforts are crucial to protect the habitats where this
orchid species thrives.
Photo by wackybadger https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=118621455
In conclusion, orchids in Northern Ontario thrive with their remarkable adaptability to the region’s unique environment. Their delicate beauty adds a touch of elegance to the diverse flora found in this captivating region. Exploring the enchanting world of Northern Ontario’s orchids reveals a harmonious blend of nature’s resilience and artistic splendor.
A fun, easy and delicious thing you can do involving wild yeast is ferment your own pine needle soda! The pine flavour is very light in the finished product and can be adjusted to your liking in future batches. The only ingredients you need are pine needles, sugar and spring water (not tap water, some municipalities have additives that may inhibit the growth of yeast).
First thing you have to do is scout out a nice pine tree that you can reach the branches, you can use red pine (Pinus resinosa) or white pine (Pinus strobus) for this recipe. It is also possible to do this with spruce needles but I have not tried it yet so I'm not sure if there is anything you would need to tweak in the recipe.
It is best to collect your pine needles after a good rain. You want this for a couple reasons, the tree is not dry and conserving water so the needles will be as lush as possible, and because the needles will be as clean as nature intends for them to be. Avoid washing your needles because you are looking to hire the yeasts that are naturally present on the needles to carbonate your beverage in exchange for a little sugar.
Add a cup worth of pine needles or whatever you can fit into your sterile vessel, (I used 1.5L) with four tablespoons (85g) of sugar, I used white sugar. You can use a sweetener if you'd like but the yeast will not do their job at the same pace. Sweeteners are typically packaged with dextrose which the yeast can metabolize but the sweetener itself the yeast will not be able to metabolize. Fill the rest of the jar up with spring water, leaving some room at the top for some pressure to build without causing a mess when you check on it.
Leave the jar out in a warm spot that is not in direct sunlight, yeast do not like direct sunlight. Wait a minimum of four days before checking your beverage, when you take the lid off there should be a little release of carbon dioxide like when you open a can of pop, but to a lesser extent. I ended up waiting four days for the red pine to be where I wanted it to be and five days for the white pine. Carbonation times will vary from batch to batch all depending on the conditions of where you let the soda ferment.
Red pine carbonated faster than the white pine and also had more of a pine taste though still very mild. If you want more pine flavour in your beverage put you needles in a bag and use a rolling pin to go over the needles a couple times to make it easier for the flavour to be exchanged into the water.
Give this recipe a try and let us know in the comments below how you do!
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Zucchini bread
There are dozens of recipes for zucchini bread but in mine I really like to stretch the amount of zucchini I put in there to try and use up as much of the harvest as possible. I have found that this recipe stores really well in the freezer and after I half the loaves, wrap them individually then put them in freezer bags, it stores well for a year. The key to preserving the bread properly is letting it cool completely before wrapping then, wrap it well! Don't be shy, you want as little air around the loaf as possible to prevent freezer burn. If you want to avoid plastics you can also use wax wraps. To use up my zucchini I load up the batter with as much shredded zucchini as I can, sometimes I'll put as much as 4 cups of shredded zucchini in the recipe, sometimes less, all depends on how much I have. If you think you've added too much shredded zucchini, add another egg to bind it all together.
Recipe:
Zucchini pickles
In my quest to find new ways of preserving the wave of zucchini to minimize my garden waste and prevent zucchini resentment I tried zucchini pickles! I found that I much prefer the texture of zucchini pickles over cucumber pickles. During the height of garden season I never seem to pick my cucumbers at the right time for pickling but zucchini, that works for me every time. I made them the same way as I did cucumber pickles!
Zucchini relish
Relish is a versatile condiment that enhances the dish that it is paired with. Sometimes I'm more in the mood for vinegar flavoured dishes and this is when i really pile on that relish, this typically happens late in the winter. Also, If you're like me and love eating fish, making your own relish is half way to homemade tartar sauce!
Recipe:
Instructions
Blanched Zucchini
I try to minimize the amount of things from the garden I freeze, to save freezer space, but there is nothing that comes as close to eating it fresh as blanched and frozen zucchini. Pick the zucchini before they start getting the bulgy end and slice them into medallions.
Instructions
Which ever way you choose to preserve your zucchini drop us a comment and let us know how it goes! Happy zucchini harvest!
]]>Here in Sudbury Ontario our growing season ends around September 25, so the best time to plant your fall season plants would be the first week of August or the end of July for the peas. There are lots of varieties you can plant for the fall, while this is not a complete list of the varieties, you can easily determine yourself by checking the date the growing season ends in your area and the time it takes the plant to grow.
Whichever variety you choose to grow for a bountiful fall harvest remember that the seedlings may be more sensitive due to being planted in the middle of the summers heat. Ensure the babies are well watered and planted in the proper soil to give them the best start and harvest potential as possible.
Which late season varieties are you going to try this year? Comment below.
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Every year early in July there is an abundance of male squash flowers in the garden. Zucchini blossoms are a very low calorie snack when eaten by themselves, and are a source of calcium, potassium and vitamins C & A. Squash plants often send out many male flowers before there are any female flowers to fertilize, you want to enjoy this seasonal delicacy while it lasts!
Stuffing squash flowers is a great way to incorporate them into your meals during that time of year because they are hard to preserve for later use. I first started stuffing the flowers when I noticed that there was a natural space when the flower folded up. Adding some type of protein in there can easily make it more of a meal. There many different fillings to choose from but I started with my favourite flavours to cook with and it quickly became a seasonal favourite. I hope you enjoy this stuffed zucchini flower recipe as much as I do!
If you love zucchini blossoms and want a great variety that is known for its large and numerous male flowers you can try growing the beautiful Costata Romanesco Zucchini. Their colouration, unique appearance and plentiful blossoms make them both an aesthetically pleasing and bountiful addition to your garden!
Do you have a favourite squash blossom recipe? Tell us about it in the comments below.
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I personally enjoy the empowering feeling of self-sufficiency I get from foraging for and making tasty snacks and meals with edible things I find in the woods.
There are a couple of ground rules when it comes to foraging that people must understand and follow so everyone can continue to enjoy nature's bounty.
Wild leeks are found in the under-story of hardwood stands such as oak and maple, on flat ground or on southern facing slopes. Their leaves are one of the first to come out in spring as they need to capture as much energy from the sun as they can before the deciduous tree leaves grow in and create a canopy above them. When the tree canopy above them grows in, their leaves die back and only the bulb remains, safely underground waiting for the next spring. Wild leeks have some lookalikes but can be easily distinguished by their strong onion scent when crushed between your fingers.
This is a plant that you need to harvest very sparingly, it can take 7-15 years to properly mature and are very slow growers as they only have leaves to catch the sun's energy for a short period each year then go dormant. Never take the whole plant, or more than 5% of a patch and do not take from the same patch each year. If possible, with permission, harvest from private property so it is known how many people are taking from one area. The leaves, bulbs and roots all have the same great taste so if you want to harvest more sustainably you can harvest only the leaves so the bulbs can regrow the next year.
Morels are a foraging favourite. They are extremely elusive mushrooms and are hard to cultivate so all the morels that you find in fancy restaurants and at farmers markets are generally harvested from the wild. They are so expensive due to the difficulty cultivating them, short growing season and their extremely short shelf life. Morels have a nutty and earthy flavour and a meaty texture.
Morels pop in the spring and can last until June, their caps are honey comb textured or pitted and can be conical, elongated or nearly spherical in shape. Their appearance is very unique and easily identifiable, however, they do have a lookalike that is not safe to eat. The best way to distinguish morels from their lookalikes is that morels will always be hallow. If you are ever unsure about the mushrooms you harvest it is always best to play it safe and to not eat it unless you are sure that it is the type you are looking for. We do not recommend 'self-taught' mushroom harvesting, beginners should always go out with experienced harvesters.
Fiddleheads are another spring foraging favourite, the are the tightly curled heads of the ostrich fern. They are found throughout hardiness zones 3 to 7 in forests where the soil is damp and rich. They can also be found along streams and brooks in wooded areas where they can get some sunlight. Ostrich fern fiddleheads can be identified by their U-shaped groove on the inside of the stem as well as the brown papery scales that they emerge from. Bracken ferns fiddleheads are similar but they can be differentiated by their fuzzy appearance, lack of U-shaped groove and no brown papery scales. To ensure ethical harvesting do not pick more than half of the fiddleheads from a group, called a crown, and do not harvest from the same crown more than once per season. Like all food you forage for make sure they are properly washed and cooked before consuming.
Dandelions are amazing in that you can eat every part of the plant! They are very nutrient dense and versatile despite being considered a weed by most people. With many options for places to pick dandelions it is important to pick them from somewhere that does not use fertilizers, pesticides or chemicals as these compounds are you do not want to consumer that and are very unpalatable. The leaves of dandelion are a great addition to spring salads or added to stir fries, they have a slightly bitter taste but have a peppery kick similar to arugula.
The root of dandelions have two parts, the inner and outer root. The fleshy outer root can be boiled and eaten and is similar to asparagus. It is recommended that you remove the inner root if you eat them this way as they can be more bitter. The roots can also be dried and used to make a drink that is similar in taste and effect to coffee.
Dandelion flowers can be used to brighten up spring salads after removing as much of the green part as you can. The flowers can also be used to make a wine that contains subtle hints of honey, a nice way to remember the taste of spring when fall and winter come barrelling around the corner. The flowers can also be used to infuse oils and vinegar's to use in cooking all year round. Or add infused oils to salves, dandelion salves are known to help with sore muscles and great for moisturizing dry skin.
The tips of white and black spruce trees are very abundant in the early summer, they are very light in both flavour and texture and can be harvested in bulk to be enjoyed for the rest of the year. Spruce tips can be added to salads and eaten raw, pickled or candied. To candy your spruce tips, cook them in a pan with syrup until reduced then dehydrate them for proper storage. Adding candied spruce tips to your favourite trail mix is a great way to enjoy this seasonal treat all year round.
Whichever way you want to spend your foraging season remember to be respectful to the environment and to enjoy the natural beauty of where you live!
My initial motivation for collecting pine pollen was a recipe video I saw online but after trying it I had to find other uses for the rest of my pollen. Spring pine pollen foraging has now turned into a yearly tradition. The bright golden yellow colour of the pollen is so alluring as well as how the pollen grains are so fine and heavy they move like sand. The texture of pine pollen is great for dredging fish and for garnishing dishes with a streak of vibrant yellow.
Harvesting the male cones of the red pine is a labour intensive process but of so satisfying. Scouting out your harvest location is important for the process, there are many red pines too tall to collect from without some type of ladder so you want to find a stand that is growing male cones closer to the ground.
In much of Eastern North America, there are more than enough red pine trees to change your location every year!
During the first week of June there are only a couple of days when the pollen is mature enough to harvest and the cones not yet fully open, the window to collect red pine pollen is brief. Keep in mind that cones with more exposure to sunlight will mature and open faster than ones that are more shaded. You’ll need a clean and dry five gallon bucket with a lid, which you’ll also use for cleaning, and a pair of garden trimmers. Before the pollen is ready the cones will be a reddish colour, then when it is time to harvest they will start showing yellow with the red. Once the whole cone turns yellow it's too late, the pollen has been released. Harvest the cone by snipping it off the end of the branch. I have found that it is very difficult to reach most male cones so the trees typically only offer you a small amount. However, the smaller trees with easier to reach cones are what you want, but be sure to avoid over-harvesting. As a rule of thumb harvest no more than 10% of any wild crop.
It is important to start the cleaning process immediately following collection because the pollen is very perishable. Add your collected cones into a clean and dry five gallon bucket with a lid. Shake the bucket and cones for a minute or two to coax the pollen out of the open cones. Collect the pollen from the bucket and sift it multiple times. This pollen was meant to be spread by the wind so it will get airborne, do your best to contain it but it is definitely recommended to do this in a garage or shed. Put the shaken cones in a dehydrator for 24 hours to release the remaining pollen and repeat the process of shaking and sifting.
Pine pollen needs to be stored in the freezer. If you are looking to store in the freezer for longer periods of time it is beneficial to remove as much moisture content as possible. This can be done by spreading the pollen on sheets and putting it in a dehydrator for 24 hours to dry it out as much as possible. As I mentioned before, the pollen has evolved to become airborne so do this very gingerly. Properly stored pollen will easily last a year in the freezer so you can enjoy vibrant yellow additions to your meal all year long.
Adding exciting and natural elements to meals through the foraging season is great for a healthy and active lifestyle. Would you give foraging for pine pollen a try this year?
]]>Side from pies, squares and many pairings with strawberries, it is great to preserve this seasonal bounty in the form of a jam to save freezer space and to always have something ready to go with a fresh batch of bread.
Depending on your preference of tart to sweet ratio, you can alter the amount of sugar in the recipe. This ratio of tart to sweet has worked for me for the past couple of years as I primarily use it on fresh bread or make a simple yogourt tart with tart shells, plain greek yogourt, rhubarb jam and chia seeds.
This is an easy recipe to follow with the most labour intensive part being the chopping. I suggest chopping several stalks at a time into half inch sized chunks so they cook down in a timely manner. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as I do.
We would love to hear your experience and success stories with cooking with rhubarb!
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Hardening off refers to the process of gradually preparing a plant that was started indoors to survive (and thrive) in outdoor conditions that are colder, windier and brighter. This process usually takes 7 to 14 days.
When starting your garden indoors it is important to harden off your baby plants because the difference in intensity between the lights they grew up with and the sun’s direct intensity is huge! If your plants are not properly acclimated to the sun’s intensity it could potentially fry leaves and the entire plant. To protect itself from water loss and the UV rays, plants produce a waxy layer called the waxy cuticle, exposure to the sun helps stimulate this waxy layer. The length of time it takes for each plant to harden off may be different; more delicate plants may require a very slow hardening off process. Be sure to listen to your plants, if they start wilting, that is them telling you to slow down the hardening process.
Find an area in indirectly sunlight that is relatively protected from the wind- this is the perfect space to place your baby plants to introduce them to the outdoors. Pick a day that is above 7 degrees Celsius and is not terribly windy. The first exposure should not be for very long, about an hour will be enough to introduce them. During the next couple days increase the amount of exposure they get outside by an hour or two each day until they can spend the whole day outside in the indirect light, do not expose them to direct sunlight yet. If the temperature drops below 7 degrees then it is best to keep the plants inside that day. Keep in mind that your plant's tender young leaves are a tasty snack for herbivores so keep them as safe as possible.
When your baby plants have passed the "shade living" test they can start to see some direct sunlight. Start off by giving them an hour of morning sun then return them to the shade. Increase the number of hours of direct sunlight each day starting in the morning. This is a critical time during hardening off as you do not want to expose them to too much direct sun too soon or the leaves and possibly the entire plant will scorch and sadly perish. If you notice some plants wilting or the leaves turning yellow during this process, remove them from the sun and let them recover. When the night time temperature stays above 10 degrees and the seedlings have had about a week of hardening off, they will be ready to spend the night outside. Ensure seedlings are well watered in case of temperature spikes during these times.
After your seedlings have been outside and have been hardened off to the amount of direct sunlight that they will be receiving they should be able to withstand the stress of being transplanted into their garden or container. Choose your transplanting day when it is cloudy or partially so, if there are no cloudy days then transplant them in the evening or afternoon so they don't get too stressed all at once. It is important to water your plants well when you transplant them as it helps with soil settling around the roots and with stress.
If these steps are followed, plants should survive the transplant and thrive in their new outdoor environment. If there are any tips, tricks or things that you do differently that you have learned in your gardening experience we'd love to hear about them in the comments below!
In our last Blog Post, we covered the basics of the type of soil and soil amendments you may want to add to your raised bed garden! In Part II, we are going to cover how to calculate how much soil you need depending on the size of your bed, and some other helpful tips!
We know that creating a good soil mix will be important for garden success. If you are on a tight budget, you can use topsoil from your yard, once you remove grass. You can then strain the soil through a screen and mix in compost to equal 25% of the topsoil. Mix compost and topsoil, and any other additions such as peatmoss and vermiculite, on a tarp or in bins BEFORE adding it to your garden bed. A great foolproof mix is equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and compost added to your topsoil.
Calculating how MUCH (i.e. in cubic feet or in cubic yards) soil you will need depending on the size of your garden box can be done by:
Cubic Feet= multiply the bed’s width, length, and height and then divide this number by 1728 (which is the number of inches in a cubic foot). For example, if you have a 4x4 foot bed (i.e. 48 inches x 48 inches) x6 inches in height : 48x48x6= 13824 inches/ 1728= 8. So this bed would need 8 cubic feet of soil.
Cubic Yards= multiply the bed’s width, length, and height and then divide this number by 46,656 (number of cubic inches in a cubic yard). So continuing with our 4foot x 4foot x 6inch bed, this would be 13824 inches/ 46,656= 0.29 cubic yards.
When filling your garden bed, mound the soil slightly so it forms a shallow slope to the bed’s sides. Overfilling your bed will cause some soil to run out on rainy days. Depressions in the soil surface will end up holding water. You may need to level the soil surface again, especially after you plant.
Maintaining your soil year after year is also needed for continued garden success. Add compost each fall or early spring to renew nutrient levels that may be depleted after growing veggies that are “heavy feeders.” At the end of the season, clear out any overripe veggies, plant stocks, and leaves in case any disease or pests linger. Mulching with straw in the fall will help suppress weeds from sprouting the following spring and will help keep your soil in one place during windy, cold months.
Getting your soil mix and nutrients right in your raised bed will set you up for success! Consider some of the above when doing your garden planning! Happy Gardening!
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Growing in raised beds can be really rewarding. A common question that arises for people interested in growing in a raised bed for the first time is “what type of soil and soil amendments do I put in it?”
You want to make sure your garden soil has enough nutrients in it to sustain your crops throughout the growing season, that it isn’t too acidic or too alkaline, and that you have good drainage and soil density. Figuring out how much soil to put in your bed is also important (we will cover how to do those calculations in Part II of this Blog. Stay tuned!)
First, let’s talk a bit about what soil does. Soil can be a wondrous web of life, full of complex inter-dependencies and processes. We know that in a teaspoon of healthy soil lies billions of lifeforms. We rely on our soil to provide our crops with nutrition. To feed our plants, we need to feed the soil.
Our plants rely on many nutrients and minerals in the soil, but the ones most often talked about are the primary nutrients, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) = (N-P-K), whose ratios you will see in that order on soil & fertilizer bags at the store (i.e. if you see 5-5-5 on the side of your compost bag, those numbers are the percent amounts of each nutrient. An NPK value of 5-5-5 means that the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus and 5% potassium.)
The higher the nutrient density in your food, the sweeter and more flavourful it will be! This is one of the reasons why it is so easy to tell if you are eating a garden carrot or tomato vs a grocery store carrot or tomato.
It is good to remember that you are feeding your soil, not your plants. Your plants will take what they need from the soil, when they need it. When you do a soil test- if your results show that your soil is low in Phosphorous, then you would add a fertilizer that is higher in Phosphorous. If your results indicate a lack of Nitrogen, then you would add more Nitrogen. Each vegetable needs its own specific levels of N-P-K, but we must trust that they will take what they need when needed. As long as there are adequate levels of NPK in your soil, you should be just fine. You can purchase home Soil Test Kits that test for Primary Nutrients and pH from most garden centres.
When it comes to the pH of your soil, it is important to understand what’s going on as the pH can affect what nutrients will be available to your plants.
Your soil's density will affect drainage & water retention. Heavy clay soil is often too compact for the delicate roots of several plants, and sandy soil will be so loose that it will not hold on to moisture very well. Topsoil, the top 2-8 inches of soil, contains the highest concentration of organic matter and nutrients and is a desirable consistency for the base of your raised bed.
Read the upcoming Part II of this blog post to learn how to calculate how much soil to put in your raised bed, and some helpful top soil to compost to peatmoss ratios to consider! What do you put in your raised bed or growing pots?? Let us know in the comments below!
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Working in agriculture presents many challenges and many rewards. There is always a balance to be working towards and a need for flexibility, adaptability, ingenuity, and the ability to find solutions when issues arise. As climate uncertainty becomes ever more present- balancing perennial and annual systems of food, fuel, and fiber production, land regeneration and biodiversity enhancement are becoming more critical. As we face droughts, floods, storms, fires, disruptions in pollinator populations, etc, optimizing diversity in our gardens and land-management systems will mean we have many eggs in many baskets, which will lead to greater resiliency.
Design tools in the areas of permaculture and agroforestry are very useful and fascinating to explore, as they present opportunities for the complexity of the human mind to meld into the complexity of naturally occurring ecosystems. These are not new systems, as Indigenous land stewards the world over have been creating, enhancing, and utilizing these methods of food, fuel, and fibre production for thousands of years, while maintaining the biodiversity of their respective deep ecologies of place.
For many of us however, especially those of us living in urban centres, we only have so much space to work with, and often rely on plots at community gardens or a small square footage of balcony greenspace. When we are limited in our space- we can be thoughtful and functional in our thinking re: what to plant. Yes, we could use up our space to grow 10 varieties of funky tomatoes, or six types of heirloom lettuce- or we can start to plan and plant based on the ideas of growing staple crops (i.e. calorie dense, good storing ability, things we eat/ use daily), nutrient-dense crops (i.e, potent medicinal foods, greens that freeze well for the winter, etc.) and those fun crops too (if we have the space)!
The Whole Systems Design Farm in Vermont is an awesome example of a food, fuel, and fiber production farm that “ identifies, designs, develops, and manages resilient human habitats that yield perennial abundance and enduring value.” The land stewards there “design landscape and infrastructure systems that become adaptive, resilient, and relatively secure in a future of climate instability". They have a goal to “help people invest resources today to build abundance and beauty, generate land-based stability, and reduce their vulnerability in the future.” From the book penned by these farmers, The Resilient Farm & Homestead, by Ben Falk, comes the concept for this current garden design pictured above.
As mentioned, the crops chosen for this plan are suggested staples, nutrient crops, and fun crops, and these are utilized on their farm, mixed in with perennial fruit and nut production, as well as mushroom & rice cultivation and pastured animals. We have taken it a step further, and designed the garden with companions in mind, which are the reason for the clusters labeled 1-6 on the image. These crops grow well together. Note that this garden is not to scale by any means, and plant spacing and trellising needs are not incorporated in this design. This garden plan was designed more so to demonstrate a thoughtfully planned out garden in terms of crop selection, and companion planting.
Clusters 1-6:
Enjoy and feel free to let us know what you think in the comments below!
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This is a simple garden plan (4x8' bed) that is great for beginner gardeners. Included are annual vegetables, as well as herbs, annual and native wildflowers that attract beneficial insects. See our blog post about Companion Planting to read more about incorporating specific wildflowers and herbs into your garden specifically to deter and repel insect pests, while attracting the “good guys.”
This garden was planned to allow for adequate space between all crops to promote good air circulation (which decreases the chance of disease), to allow for crops to size up, and to allow for the gardener to see what is going on with each plant. Allowing your crops to have enough room as they grow is important for new gardeners so you can make sense of what is going on and understand each crop’s behaviour. It is very easy to plant things too densely at first with your newfound garden enthusiasm, only to find that quickly your crops get into a tangle, and you end up in a situation where you may not know what is what and are unable to identify any issues should pests, disease or other problems arise. When designing your garden, make sure to research how much space each crop needs. Check out a few resources to make sure you are getting consistent information.
Some notes about this garden design and tips for productive harvests:
Planning and designing your garden in advance is fun and will lead to great success as you will know how many seeds to start/ seedlings to purchase and what supplies and materials you will need throughout the season!
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The process is very simple:
1) Procure yourself some tulip bulbs, we have a few premium mix packs left from our friends at Roam Flora (Ottawa). To check the quality of the bulbs make sure they are firm and free of rot and soft spots.
2) Place your bulbs in a reusable container or plastic bag and place them in a cool dark place (2-7C) for 12-16 weeks. The crisper in your refrigerator is a great spot, in an unheated garage or even place in a safe spot outdoors (where they will need get wet and the critters can't eat them).
3) Choose an indoor pot with good drainage and fill with soil up to 3-4 inches below the rim of the pot. Place your bulbs on top of the soil with the pointy side up, and fill around them with soil, ensuring the top of the bulbs are still poking through the soil.
4) Keep your pot in a cool, dark spot (a spot in the basement or garage works) and water lightly once a week. Once leaves appear, move your pot into a location with direct light and enjoy the blooms!